Clutch Slave Differences

[ScrappyJack]

For those not on the main FL YahooGroups:


I wrote:
I hit the trusty old Talon Archives. I ordered a rebuild kit for my clutch slave cylinder and received the one with the red piston. My slave has the green piston.

Red piston (3/4") kit = MD997786
Green piston (13/16") kit = ?

When pulling it up on CAPS, I used the following info:

21-010
MD603466 = "Push Rod, Clutch Release"
MD997786 = "Cylinder Kit, Clutch" (Includes pistno, seal, and boot)
MD603467 = "Spring, Clutch Release"

Normally, when you select an item that has options, they send you to the build date screen. I don't get that for the Cylinder Kit, so I'm not sure how to specify which piston bore I need. Any help would be appreciated.

I'm broke, the slave isn't. The rebuild kit is under $10 from my local dealer and takes maybe two more minutes than a regular slave swap. We've done it on other cars here with good luck, so if I can get the correct parts, I'd rather do that.

[ScrappyJack]

I RTFCDM and found something berry, berry eenteresting.

Clutch release cylinder I.D. mm (in.):
1.8L (NT) = 20.64 (13/16)
2.0L (NT) = 20.64 (13/16)
2.0L (T.) = 19.05 (3/4)

So, apparently I had the non-turbo slave cylinder on my car? I ordered a replacement from AutoZone - the whole slave cylinder was only about $11 (which makes me somewhat nervous) so I will compare when I get that one.

[wheelsup]

AutoZone nnnnoooooo(in bevis & butthaed talk) I got 1 from them & it lasted 2 days & they said that they wouldnt replace it cause it was going on a "racecar" & that it was abused. NOPIonline(yeah, yeah i know)insert comments here" " has 1 for $29 slave cylinder (http://www.nopionline.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=dspparts&vL1ID=0&makeid=075&modelid=450&catyear=1992&catid=0035&pcid=625&vTitle=1992%20CHRYSLER%20CORP%20Talon%20Clutch/Transmission%20Clutch%20Slave%20Cyl)

[ScrappyJack]

I've had good luck with AutoZone (NOT Discount Auto Parts) so far and the guys at mine are pretty cool - no doubt they'll warranty it if need be. I'll keep everyone posted.

[Geovannie]

Yes Jack we bought one at discount auto parts and the only one that came up was the green one. There has been alot of discussion about this on the Tampa board but as you know it is down. The correct one for turbo apps 1g or 2g is the red one. However many have had the green one in and have not had any problems. Some will have problems. If you search the archives you will see that this is a national problem. Aparently all auto parts stores have hte screwed up.

I think there is a 90% chance that what you ordered was another green piston one. I know that at discount you can see the bore size b4 you order. Don't know about autozone. Post this on the tampa list as I have seen alot of them with this problem. I will save myself the headache and get the red one.

[ScrappyJack]

Thanks Geo -

Called Discount, they do show two different bores but they say they don't carry them.

Neither part from AutoZone matched up to the red (3/4") piston, so I got a refund. Mark and Dan at the 17-92 & 436 shop took care of me. Discount said they couldn't get them, so I called good ol' Eric at Holler Mitsu.

Mitsu Part Number: MD733623 (1G Turbo AWD)
Mitsu Part Number: MD733620 (1G Turbo FWD)
Mitsu Part Number: MD733228 (1G Non-Turbo)

Mitsu Part Number: MD742158/MD749823 (2G Turbo AWD/FWD)
Mitsu Part Number: MD749823 (2G Turbo AWD/FWD) [Build 9607.1]

According to the DSM Manual CD, the 1G and 2G parts [b]ARE different. 1G turbo = 3/4", 2G turbo = 13/16"

Ah ha! Galant:
1991 tubo models = 13/16"
1992 - 1993 turbo = 3/4"

But they didn't make a US GVR4 in '93! WTF? :frust: More research is being done. I will get to the bottom of this.

[PiercedJD]

Deja Vu :rolleyes:

Damn tampa board going down! There were a lot of posts about this. Geovanie and myself had a few discussions about it as well.

(EDIT: for the record, autozone has a book that has reference numbers including bore diamteres etc. for their slave and master cylinders. Just find the guy who looks like he's in charge and ask. Our local autozone lets me rummage through the back now to find what I am looking for. :D )

[Dre']

PiercedJD;


(Our local autozone lets me rummage through the back now to find what I am looking for. )



Cool, maybe you can find the right part # for our application and pass it along to the boys. :D

[Dre']

Jack, is there any way you can just use the rubber peices that came with the kit, and put them on your old piston. Maybe they will work since they are only slightly smaller.??

Just me .02 Mon!!

Dre'

[mike66]

yeah this was going on the tampa board just before it went down. I have the green cylionder in my 95 GSX. Jason pointed out to me that I needed the red one. My clutch grinds a little in every gear. It never seems to fully disengage.

I asked the mistu dealer about it and they said they have heard a lot about this too.

Just make sure you get the red.

[PiercedJD]

the "nut mod" works wonders. weld a nut onto the clutch master cylinder adjustment piece, and add a new nut to lock it in place. adds about a 1/4 inch of new threads to the adjustment piece and gives a lot more adjustment as far as pedal height. An upside is that it doesn't pre-load the clutch, so it's not the same as crutching a bad clutch by shimming the slave cylinder rod or putting washers under the clutch fork pivot.

As far as the correct part number, I couldn't tell ya. it was listed different in two different books. one had the red piston slave listed for non turbo's , and the other had the red piston listed for awd's, with the green pistons in either book being listed for all other vehicles. The easiest way is to pop the package open in the store and see what color piston is in there, and if it's green then process of elimination, go with the other part number.

You can get a cheap rebuild kit in the store, but it is NOT listed as a dsm kit. I forget what it came out of actually (chrysler lebaron maybe??? ). We just grabbed a box full of rebuild kits and went through them til we found a red piston and sized it up with calipers and everything matched. it was *slightly* different but got the job done.

All of the sizing on those suckers is matched by piston color, so all red pistons are same diameter, and so on so forth for green and silver.

Another consideration for clutch engagement/disengagement issues, and something I have given thought to since I use a completely different diameter slave bore now, but my clutch operates perfectly, is the flare pipe.

I use one section of flare pipe from the slave to the master with no intermediate/flex sections. My clutch disengages perfectly, and with the coveted "nut mod" as added insurance, I can place my engagement point wherever I want in the pedal range with a slight adjustment (like 1/8th turn of the rod).

Yet another factor I think might be contributing to my smooth clutch operation is the fact that I now use a pilot bearing, which the dsm's do not. makes sense, that if the disc is riding on the input shaft and in a confined space with very tight tolerances, between the pressure plate and flywheel, that it should maintain almost perfect alignment. If it comes out of this perfect alignment it will take more clutch travel to properly disengage it, as the disc is now sort of wedged inbetween the flywheel and pressure plate. The pilot bearing keeps the input shaft of the tranny in check, whereas the dsm input shaft just floats there. Adding a pilot bearing type setup to a dsm tranny/flywheel would be relatively simple. remove the input shaft and take it to a welding shop and have a small diameter rod attached to the front of it that would ride within the centerbore of the flywheel, then have the input shaft balanced. machining the flywheel to accept the pilot bearing costs about 30 bucks. I got my flywheel resurfaced and stepped, and the pilot bearing mounting location bored for $50.00. The pilot bearings cost about $10-20 and should be changed when you change your clutch ( or at least when you change your disc and T.O.B.). Seems like some relatively cheap insurance *if* it works to avoid busting a clutch disc, or having avoidable clutch engagement issues.



Just a few things to consider. May be completely bogus information, based solely on my observations.