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XeroEquality
September 23rd, 2010, 07:00 PM
Hey all,

Ok so I have a 97 Eclipse GS-T Spyder with the stock 4G63T motor running a Big 16 G turbo nothing has been modified with the oil system. I have two different technicians telling me two totally different ways to go for oil, one says go with 10w-40 conventional oil w/ Purrelator filter and the other says go with Mobil 1 full synthetic and (he actually recommended a Fram filter but I am going to straight up ignore that the said that). The car has almost 83k on it and it has been fed full synthetic since it was a baby. So just wanted to bounce this off the forum and see what ppl say. One guy also said to do an oil change every 1.5k (I don't usually push it hard, mostly just driving to and from work), thoughts?

Thanks all.

vr4scott
September 23rd, 2010, 08:08 PM
It's all preference really. I used to run castrol syntec 10w-40 with a mobil 1 filter on the stock motor. I now use either mobil 1 or royal purple 10w-40/ 20w-50 mix with a purolator pureone or mobil 1 filter.

Project90Talon
September 23rd, 2010, 09:45 PM
I run castrol high-mileage 20w-50 with a purolator. As scott said, it's all preference.

EaglesFly
September 23rd, 2010, 10:16 PM
I now use conventional Valvoline Racing 20w-50 with a Mitsu OEM Filter.

94dsm
September 24th, 2010, 12:59 AM
I run Royal Purple 10w-40 and allways a k&n filter. It's super smooth and I do the old fashioned 3k changes. But I will say I've always heard that after you switch to synthetic you're not supposed to switch back unless you've done a rebuild. I think it's because the oils won't mix well.

97GSXmike
September 24th, 2010, 01:11 AM
10w40 Valvoline conventional oil, purolator filter.

vr4scott
September 24th, 2010, 01:17 AM
I've also been told that synthetic oil change intervals are around 6k miles, but I still do it every 3k.

arturorz17
September 24th, 2010, 12:11 PM
I use (whatever Jose put in), and a Mitsu OEM Filter. I should ask him which oil he used. I do know he said to change it every 3k.

Red97Talon
September 24th, 2010, 12:28 PM
In a conventional oil I like Valvoline 20w-50 with a Mitsu or Denso equivalent filter changed every 3000 miles.

If you go synthetic Mobil1 15w-50 is where it's at. Again use a mitsu or Denso filter and change every 5000 or so. Synthetic oils are far superior against thermal break down and dealing with contaminants.

Most 90% of daily driver cars should be fine using a good grade oil. I run Mobil1 synthetic in my daily drivers but the reason is to extend oil change intervals to 5000 miles. It's actually more cost effective and you have the benefit of bettter oil performance. In my own DSM I run conventional oil solely based on more oil change frequency. Turbo motors are rough on oil. So changing oil in shorter mileage intervals is good.

97GSXmike
September 24th, 2010, 12:30 PM
Mine gets changed about every 1500-2000 miles using conventional oil. However, it is also not a daily driver.

XeroEquality
September 24th, 2010, 12:44 PM
Thanks for all the great info guys. What are thoughts on a synthetic blend?

damnDSM
September 24th, 2010, 02:03 PM
Like Jose and Mike, In my GST when I was racing it every weekend (and every time I drove it), changing my oil every 2000mi or sooner was unavoidable because of how hard I was on the motor. I have used Royal Purple and Mobil1, but I wasn't comfortable using the oil after it started to smell like exhaust and gasoline. If you do not beat on your car every time you drive it (like me) than I would go with Mobile1 or Royal Purple.

JAXWHITE1G
September 24th, 2010, 03:05 PM
I run Royal Purple 10w-40 and allways a k&n filter. It's super smooth and I do the old fashioned 3k changes. But I will say I've always heard that after you switch to synthetic you're not supposed to switch back unless you've done a rebuild. I think it's because the oils won't mix well.

Synthetic oils in the past would tend to swell the oil seals and they would wear in to accommodate the expansion. If you switched back to conventional oils the seals would shrink back to their original size and with all the wear from expansion they would leak profusely. Better seals and different additives in the synthetic oils have eliminated that and it no longer seems to be a problem. I still wouldn't switch back and forth on an older engine. That is just my personal opinion.
I use Valvoline Racing 20/50 and a Fram filter only because it is the only filter that will fit my external oil cooler adapter.

Mike

DSMDealer
September 25th, 2010, 02:31 PM
I use 15w40 non-synthetic fleet oil and a Fram filter.

ROYALGSX
September 26th, 2010, 11:51 PM
I always used 20w-50 Mobil 1 in my 100k plus mile engine, and changed it around 4-5k miles, beat on religiously. When it actually did blow up, the inside was like new, for 120k. I had an injector die, it was not a bearing failure. I abused the shit out of my poor girl, and she rocked for 8-ish years like that. I love Mobil 1, I just wish they made it in a straight weight. There's alot of additives in oil to make it "know" when to change viscosities, I don't like it, I don't trust it.

14btalon
October 12th, 2010, 10:26 PM
I found this on the Forcedperformance website http://store.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/graphics/subaru_oil/Forced%20Performance%20Recommendations%20for%20Mot or%20Oil.pdf. There is alot of good info there.

fernandoOstar
October 13th, 2010, 12:28 AM
i use valvoline vr1 20w-50 with either a mitsu filter or a mobil 1 filter ....stuff works great !

DSMer
October 14th, 2010, 12:21 PM
I now use conventional Valvoline Racing 20w-50 with a Mitsu OEM Filter.
That is EXACTLY how I roll in the DSM. I do not see a point in running the synthetic in the DSM because it never stays in there long enough.
I prefer the OEM Mitsu filters. Sealed on the top, lubed o-ring and factory quality.


I run Royal Purple 10w-40 and allways a k&n filter. It's super smooth and I do the old fashioned 3k changes. But I will say I've always heard that after you switch to synthetic you're not supposed to switch back unless you've done a rebuild. I think it's because the oils won't mix well.
Not true anymore, look on the back of a Mobil 1 bottle, see what is says about compatibility.


I've also been told that synthetic oil change intervals are around 6k miles, but I still do it every 3k.
Oil still gets dirty just as fast.

IMO here is the secret about oil life. In a NORMAL car (not most of our DSM's), drive cycles are what it is all about.
Most of all oil contamination happens between startup and operation temp.
Even in a brand new car, when you start the motor cold, the rings have not expanded and there is blow by into the crankcase (think oilpan). Once everything warms up and everything has expanded there is very little oil contamination/ware. Even while oil is doing its dutys of metal isolation, there is little ware because it is designed to do that at those temps.
I bet you could drive a car with a healthy motor, 15K mile without stoping and check the oil at the end to find clean oil.
If you make short trips daily, change you oil often.

arturorz17
October 18th, 2010, 12:19 PM
I found this on the Forcedperformance website http://store.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/graphics/subaru_oil/Forced%20Performance%20Recommendations%20for%20Mot or%20Oil.pdf. There is alot of good info there.


I just red the entire Forced Performance Recommendations for Motor Oil. Great reading !!!
Thanks for the information.

Its amazing how crucial it is, to use the correct type of oil.

vr4scott
October 18th, 2010, 02:31 PM
I guess I'll be strictly using VR1 from now on. Good read thanks for the link.

EaglesFly
October 18th, 2010, 02:38 PM
I'm thankful to say that VR1 Racing Oil is the only thing that's been in my engine since the initial 20 minute break in.

AWDSM
October 18th, 2010, 10:43 PM
I wish I saw this thread prior to my Mobil 1 synthetic switch!

Mykon
October 19th, 2010, 08:27 AM
For those who can't view the pdf, here's an excerpt:


So for the cliffs notes crowd out there, here is the summary: Do not use Mobil1 10w30 or any other “on
highway” GF-4 oil in your 4G63 motor with any FP high output stock appearing turbo. Use a suitable racing oil
designed for high film strength and heavy pressure loading such as Brad Penn, Joe Gibbs, Valvoline VR1, Amsoil
Racing oil or Royal Purple racing oil. Also remember that racing oils are detergent free and need to be changed
frequently.