Reply With Quotemuffler bearings?
Just wondering if anybody experienced this and how do I fix it? My car is a 95 gst, I did the 6 bolt swap and kept the 7 bolt head, and in the process added a sheet metal intake(brand unknown), Q45 Tb, maft, and gm 3 inch maf. Everything works good but my stock tach does not move at all. Any advice is greatly appreciated, thanks in advanced.
muffler bearings?
also i had to swap my ecu from the 95 gst non eprom to a 97 gsx eprom, if that has anything to do with anything.
the 97 gsx didnt have an eprom... unless you're referring to the black cased ecu which is reflashable.
Bombing for peace is like fucking for virginity.
Did you make sure the tach filter was plugged in?
"Horsepower is how hard you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you."
With the 6 bolt swap you gotta make sure that harness is wired correctly. If the tach output from the CAS is not properly connected you will get a jumpy signal or none at all in your case. If you redo the harness and it still does the same thing I would try a different CAS. Also, when I was researching the swap mostly everybody said to use the blacktop CAS because it is a "hall effect" type device which is the closest technology reading to what the stock 2g sensors use and whatever you do don't use the 90 CAS for your swap, it's the CAS with the wires coming out of it and not a plug directly on it.
Bombing for peace is like fucking for virginity.
I bought the computer and link off of another forum from the same guy. Everything was already done to the computer. I do have the black top CAS. I'm going to try to wire it again an if it don't work ill try a new CAS. Thanks everybody. Also I was reading about that noise filter but it is only on the 90's cars. Is that what you are talking about when you say tach filter??
Yes. It is not just 90 cars. You have that confused. 1990 cars have a different Tach output and power transistor. Most all 1G and 2G's have that little filter. If it's not connected then it will not run the tach.
Also, if the car runs the CAS is wired correctly. The tach has nothing to do with being wired directly to the CAS.
"Horsepower is how hard you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you."
So where can i find that at?? The car did start and run funny but it needs a tune.
I was going on experience. When I first started my car the tach jumped up and down all the time. I remade the harness ensuring proper connection and the rpm gauge was back to normal.
Bombing for peace is like fucking for virginity.
if the noise filter is that little silver barrel looking thing with one wire to it than yes it connected but does it have to be mounted any place in particular? im going to double check the wires today and see if something new comes up. I check the resistance and continuity in the wires and nothing. The only thing im finding wierd is that when i test the ignition coil plug to coil harness that i made, for resistance the blue wires have 1.8 ohm reading from point a to a and b to b.i don't think that's rights. The red wire is 0 ohms.
Also I am not getting a 12v reading to the stock crank sensor plug while I am cranking it. Thanks again for the help guys.
Do you know for a fact that your power transistor is good?
Bombing for peace is like fucking for virginity.
Well I followed the Haynes Manuel in testing it and it passed. I'm going to assume it is just the dash that went out. Now that my car was off timing when I started it my valves hit my pistons and bent the valves so I am not worried about the rpms right now. Thanks for all the help everyone.
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